Thursday, October 30, 2008
Conditioning
Lately, the college team I'm coaching has decided to have MANDATORY "conditioning practices" twice a week. If you want to play, apparently you must cut time out of your schedule to run and do pushups at exactly seven o'clock every Tuesday and Thursday night. If you have prior engagements (like class, tutoring, review sessions, lab, part-time job, etc.) then that's just too damn bad. You can't compete because you aren't "dedicated enough" to make it to conditioning.
Well... Let's piss some people off, shall we?
Conditioning is NOT an essential part of tournament practices. No matter how many pro players you quote about this, I'm going to disagree. In fact, I think it is a terrible waste of team time. Time with all players together as a group being used to run and do pushups? This is idiotic. Group time would be better spent actually playing the game, working on technique, doing drills, reviewing videos, or considering tactics and strategy.
I understand there are exceptions. For instance, if your particular team has a person or two who can't walk up a few flights of stairs without needing to stop to take a breather, then your team needs conditioning practices. If they can't sprint for 50 yards, then yes, conditioning is needed. If players are overweight enough where sprinting is an issue, then damn, make running and eating right a priority by all means.
But let me describe my team. They are all between 18 and 23 years old. They are all slim without ANY visible body fat... basically, these guys are all fairly skinny and completely in the prime of their life. They are thin, young, and healthy. Knowing this, they can DEFINITELY play a game that is held on a 125' by 150' playing field and which has a time limit of 5 minutes. Why should miles running as a team be required when the farthest distance you might ever have to run in a tournament is about a hundred yards? I mean, how often will endurance come into play when it is only 150' each way to grab the flag and run all the way back for a hang? ...and that is depending on game format. The distances may be much shorter.
I personally think this issue with my team is partly due to the fact that a person in one of the top managerial positions(treasurer) has NO experience in tournaments. He is a fitness addict. He has never played tournament paintball, only woodsball and scenario with a pump gun. He's also on the school wrestling team, which of course has required conditioning, and it should. But let me make one thing clear...
SCENARIO/WOODSBALL AND TOURNAMENT SPEEDBALL ARE NOT THE SAME! You may have to run for hundreds of yards in scenario play, but that just isn't going to happen in speedball!
Basically, my theory is that since he has very little tournament or speedball experience, yet he is in a leadership position, he feels he must make conditioning madatory since that is what he personally (he's on the wrestling team, remember) is good at. He's below average ability in the actual game of speedball, but he is stressing conditioning since he is superior in that reguard (the guy plays woodsball with a pump and is considering doing marathons).
Physical "power, strength, and endurance" are not neccesary to dominate the field in a tournament. Paintball has nothing to do with how much strength you have! As long as you are physically able to hold your marker steady and crouch in awkward positions for about five minutes, you have met the physical strength requirements to win. The endurance situation is similar: if you can sprint for a hundred yards without needing to lie down afterwards, you should have enough stamina to finish out a game of speedball. Victory is much more dependent on movement strategy, a clear head, and shooting skills than endurance and strength.
Basically, I'm aware that many teams consider conditioning crucial. But assuming all your team members can meet the previous paragraph's requirements, it is most likey not needed... or at least it isn't needed until many other skills are perfected.
I'm not against fitness and being healthy, I just think team time as a group would be much better used than running and pushups.
Note: I am aware how much speed is important, but that isn't endurance... it is sprinting. When I'm in the open during a tourney, it is done at a full sprint and only over short distances. Being out in the open for too long (even at full speed) will get you shot. Period.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Defense Against Bunkering
How? I'm about to tell you.
First off, you need to know it's coming. If you already have your head down and for some reason, the paint just keeps coming, someone is moving. There's only one reason an opposing back player would send dozens of paintballs your way when you are not even exposed... someone is moving! Remember this. Look around. Even while you are behind cover, you can check to your sides to be sure you aren't getting flanked.
If you aren't getting flanked, and none of your team members are getting flanked while the paint just keeps pouring into your cover, you just may be getting bunkered. Keep in mind, it might also just be that an opponent is moving up. Either way, here's the protocol:
- Whatever side you were firing out of before, SWITCH.
- Aim around waist level.
- If you aren't being forced to play extremely close to your bunker, back up as much as possible.
- Listen for footsteps, paintballs shaking around in a hopper, or for someone firing as they approach your bunker.
- If someone comes around your bunker... Let 'em have it.
If you were shooting from the right side of your bunker, be ready for an opponent to come around the left side...and vice versa. Unless he's an idiot, your opponent isn't going to come running around the side he just saw you shooting from. He'll be trying to shoot you in the back.
Aim at waist level. Pods and hipbones will definitely mean your paintballs break. Especially at this range. If he decides to slide in on his knees to get you, you'll just end up shooting him in the face and shoulders. If he decides to slide around your bunker headfirst (superman slide), his marker will be bobbling all over the place. Hopefully he'll have a difficult time hitting you. This should give you the split second required to drop your aim lower and take him out.
If you have the opportunity and space, back up a couple of steps away from your bunker. Your enemy may be expecting you to be right up against the bunker...this means he'll be in your firing lane before he's expecting it. He also may have to adjust his aim further back. That gives you a very substantial head start considering the entire encounter is likely to take place in less than one second.
If you're listening carefully, you might be able to hear his footsteps, paintballs shaking in his hopper, or him firing if he's a little too early. This will mean you are certainly about to get bunkered. However, if it's just footsteps, only shoot once or twice when he comes around your bunker... it could just be a ref.
Don't overshoot. This clown might deserve it, but be nice. The "three plus" rule might apply.
...on a side note: If at all possible, don't shoot into your opponent's groin or throat.
Keep in mind, if you take these precautions because the paint kept flying into your bunker when you were behind cover, it may just mean that someone is moving up. If that's the case, don't sit around waiting for a chump to come around your bunker for too long. It might never happen.
On the other hand, if you are the last one standing on your team, you are outnumbered, and you have obtained a field position that makes it impossible for your opponents to flank you, you can be completely sure that an opponent is going to bunker you...or at least he's going to try. If a bunkering move is the only way the opposing team can eliminate you before the clock runs down, it should be obvious what is about to happen. Be ready for it.Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Bunkering
If you do the move correctly, you will make the person you bunkered look like a complete tool while also shooting them at extremely close range. As I said before, this is a very aggressive move and is not for new players. Don't be surprised if your opponent is pissed.
Whoever may be reading this, listen up. I'm about to give away all of my knowledge free of charge. Please keep in mind that this information was not free for me. I paid my tuition in welts and bruises.
- Before you commit, decide whether you are staying at that bunker or if you are going to keep running to the next bunker. The latter would be known as a "run through."
- Know which side of the bunker your opponent has been shooting from.
- Make sure his back players aren't looking at you.
- If your back players didn't order you to do this bunkering move, make sure they are aware of it and are covering you.
- Make the poor sucker keep his head down. You can do this yourself or have your backplayer do it for you. Someone needs to send some paint his way before you leave cover.
- Come out of your bunker with your marker up and run directly at your opponent's bunker.
- When you're 5 steps away from his bunker, veer towards the opposite side of the bunker where you saw him last. This will generally be your right and his left.
- As you round the corner (just before you see him) begin firing at about waist level.
- Keep firing until you see a ball break on him or until he shoots you.
- Get behind your newly taken bunker ASAP because his team mates are going to be itching to peg you.
Of course, if you are going to continue moving up after shooting your opponent (a run through), don't even slow down while you paint him. Go ahead and run to your next victim or your desired bunker.
If the opposing team is organized, you're going to need every millisecond you can get... his backplayers aren't just going to sit there and watch this go down. Back up a couple of steps from your bunker before you leave cover to gain a little speed. That way, by the time you're visible, you're at a dead sprint. Of course this only applies if you are not being forced to play super tight to your bunker.
If the person you're bunkering is the only one who has a clear shot at you once you get there, turn your back on your opponent immediately after you hit him. That way, if he returns fire and tries to say it was a mutual elimination (you shot each other at the same time) it will be obvious to referees that you shot him first because you had time to turn around before he returned fire. It may also prevent you from getting shot in the groin or trachea point blank.
Shooting at waist level is a good idea for several reasons. If your opponent is standing up, you'll get a sure break on his pods or hipbones. If he's on a knee, you'll get a break on his head and goggles or maybe even his marker. Also, if you shoot him in the pods, marker, or goggles, it won't even hurt... yeah, like you cared.
Don't overshoot. It's bad etiquette, it's mean, and some tournaments have the "three plus" rule. That means that if you shoot an opponent three or more times than was necessary to eleminate him, you're out too.
Don't be upset if he immediately returns fire and lights you up like a Christmas tree. It's instinct. Plus, you're the one who decided to shoot him at point blank range.
If the referee calls it a mutual elimination and it wasn't, don't argue it. If you used the tip about turning your back after you eliminated him you shouldn't have this problem. If you did turn your back and the ref still called it a mutual, send your captain after the game is over to point out that little nugget of information. If that's the case, it's probably an inexperienced ref. Just make sure your captain mentions it in a calm and unaggressive way. If this occurs in a recreational game, just drop it because nobody cares. Really. No one cares.
Also, occasionally, you'll run into some really good players. One of these guys knows you're about to perform a bunkering move before you do. When your backplayer makes him duck behind cover, he knows exactly what's coming. He'll switch the marker to his other hand so now you're coming around the side his gun is on. He might even back up from his bunker a few steps so maybe you'll become visible to each other before you're expecting it... and of course he'll be on his knees. There's only one way to bunker these guys and it very well may not work anyway. You're going to have to slide past his cover and hope he isn't prepared for you to be that low when you come into sight. You might be able to do it superman style but you'll probably miss; your elbows will be sliding across the ground making your gun unstable. Sliding on your knees is probably a better bet. Still, if he knows what he's doing, it will be a mutual elimination in the best case scenario. If he really is this good, don't despair when he gets you. This guy probably would've eliminated you eventually anyway.
Mechanical Paintball Marker
To put this feat in perspective, imagine removing everything that attaches the engine block to the car frame and having the vehicle still work flawlessly... other than converting it into a manual transmission. Pretty impressive, huh?
Anyway, I've always disliked using technology (such as electronic markers) as a crutch because it seems like it prevents me from actually gaining real skill in the game of paintball. By constantly shooting 15 balls per second at their bunker, any idiot can hold off a seasoned paintballer... at least for a few seconds. But what I've always loved is facing a seasoned 'baller with my old 98 Custom and either eliminating him or forcing him to work his butt off to eliminate me. I've never minded too much the snickers of other tournament teams when they see me walking onto the field with a stock 98C. And I never held it against them when they were walking off. I mean, how were they supposed to know who they were dealing with?
In the past, teams I've been on were small time teams. Those teams were not necessarily hoping to gain fame or fortune by dominating every single tournament. We just got tired of mopping up the local fields every weekend and were looking for some stiffer competition. In that environment, my 98C worked fine. It shot when I wanted it to at a rate of around five paintballs per second. It performed well enough in tournaments. I mean, after all, I usually played as a frontman and didn't need to shoot super accurate strings of 35 paintballs. I counted on my skill to get me in a good position to eliminate an opponent and refused to use firepower as a crutch.
Well, now things are different. I'll soon be on a very serious and competitive paintball team. Not only that, but I'll be leading it. And I'll be needing every bit of help I can get. Although the skills I built while playing with a 98C in tournaments will definitely help, I would like a faster firing and more accurate marker.
...Here's the thing. I want the marker to function mechanically because I hate having to rely on batteries. It seems like there's always at least one person sitting out during every game because his marker needs batteries. This is unacceptable. Also, electronic markers seem very finicky and fragile. There's always someone sitting out during games trying to tinker with their marker to get it to fire right. Also, playing in the rain is not an option with some electronic markers.
Well now. Hear this... I've never had to sit out a game because of my marker not working and I'm not about to start now. Ditto with bad weather. If it won't work in a downpour, I don't want it. When I pull the trigger, my marker had better fire. Period.
What I'm looking for is a mechanical marker that will work with C02 OR high pressure air. I want it to be strictly semi-auto, none of that three-round-burst crap. It needs to be simple with the least amount of moving parts possible. It needs to be rugged enough to survive hasty and sloppy superman slides. It needs to function in the rain. Batteries are a no go. It needs to have a firing rate of at least 8 rounds per second while walking the trigger. A frontman or midplayer should not feel outgunned with it in competitive tournament play. I also want to be able to fully disassemble the thing with one or two tools on a tailgate. I should be able to field strip it with no tools. And it should be less than 300 bucks.
Is that too much to ask?